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My journey into the world of Japanese tea took me deep into Yame, where I first encountered the fascinating category of white leaf tea (白葉茶, haku you cha). While I had previously been familiar with white tea, this was an entirely different discovery.
What is White Leaf Tea?
White leaf tea should not be confused with traditional white tea, which refers to a specific processing method involving minimal oxidation and a lack of rolling or shaping. White tea is predominantly produced in China, with notable varieties such as Silver Needle (Bai Hao Yin Zhen) and White Peony (Bai Mu Dan) originating from Fujian province. I had only tried white teas from China & India, and it left quite an impression on me at the time, so as you imagine I was intrigued.
White leaf tea, however, is unique due to its distinctive leaf appearance rather than its processing method. In Japan, it is considered somewhat of an anomaly, occurring either as a natural mutation or through careful cultivation techniques.
The Science Behind White Leaf Tea
According to research presented at the 4th International Conference on O-CHA (Tea) Culture and Science in 2010, Japan has two registered white leaf tea cultivars (‘Hoshinomidori’ and ‘Kiraka’) and two known strains (‘Morokozawa’ and ‘Yamabuki’). Studies indicate that white leaf teas contain significantly higher levels of free amino acids and minerals compared to the common green leaf Yabukita cultivar. This increased amino acid content enhances the umami profile of the tea, making it a fascinating choice for those seeking complexity in flavour.
Discovering Hakusei at Takaki Tea Farm
During the planning phase of my trip to Japan, I had arranged to visit Takaki Tea Farm. To my surprise, Takaki-san informed me that he was cultivating a unique white leaf tea known as Hakusei (白星, meaning ‘white star’). This was an incredible opportunity, as Hakusei is not available for public sale due to its limited production.
Hakusei is the result of selective breeding from naturally mutated seedlings. Takaki-san began planting these seedlings five years ago, but commercial production only started recently, with availability still restricted due to its rarity.
Unlike conventional white teas, Hakusei is processed as a sencha. Prior to harvesting in May, the plants undergo a shading process, which contributes to their elevated amino acid content and deep flavour profile.
Tasting Notes
The dry leaves of Hakusei had a striking appearance—thin, needle-like, and beautifully interwoven with shades of pale green and yellow.
Brewing 3g of the tea at 70°C for 90 seconds, I was met with a luminous yellow liquor. The aroma carried subtle notes reminiscent of almonds and sweet corn.
The first sip was a revelation—umami-rich, full-bodied, and surprisingly sweet. The dominant flavour reminded me distinctly of sweet corn soup, leaving a lingering and satisfying aftertaste.
Despite being processed as a sencha, Hakusei had a gyokuro-like quality. The second infusion, using the same parameters, yielded a nearly identical experience—smooth, consistent, and deeply satisfying.
The tea remained enjoyable for a total of five steepings, with the last two being noticeably softer, with diminished sweetness. Examining the spent leaves, their delicate paleness was clearly evident.
Final Thoughts
Tasting Hakusei was an unforgettable experience. This tea, alongside Takaki-san’s sencha, exemplifies the refined craftsmanship behind Japan’s rare teas. The depth of flavour, the balance of umami and sweetness, and the uniqueness of its cultivation make Hakusei a true gem in the world of Japanese tea.
I now brew this at 60˚C for 90 seconds as well, to get more of the umami notes, sweetness and fewer of the slightly bitter notes out of it this rare white Japanese tea.
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